Any planting should begin with a survey of the soil. Gardener must have an accurate idea of its type, mechanical composition, pH, nutrient content, depth of groundwater and the presence of gleyed horizon.
All varieties of blueberries, as well as wild species, like light acidic soil. They grow well in peat, sand and sandy substrates with rotted leaf litter, significantly improves the water regime and soil fertility. This soil can be created on the garden plots, using peat, leaves, bark, sawdust, or other acidic materials, increasing the acidity (pH) to 3.5-4.5.
The optimal place to grow - this is the area where this is not to cultivated crops, because previously cultivated arable land adversely affect the mycorrhiza.
It is impossible to plant blueberries on land that are very low, because here there is a risk of waterlogging. In blueberries, for a long time growing in soil with excess moisture, the roots are damaged (due to lack of oxygen, broken processes of respiration and metabolism, which leads to decay and death of roots). Similar phenomena are observed during the growth of plants on heavy clay soils. In addition, the low-lying areas in late spring frost damage to plants is more intense as the cold air as mist flows into these places.
Blueberries, like and many shrubs fruiting, prefers sunny places. You can put it in partial shade, but then the plant will be less fruitful, and fruit quality is much worse: reduced sugar content, reduced keeping quality, etc. In addition, freezing in winter may escape, as they do not always have time to woodiness
To know exactly what fertilizers need to land and what dose they are made, it is best to contact the nearest agrochemical laboratory. They will analyze samples collected in different places of the site and determine the content of major mineral elements - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as the humus content and acidity.
Following the decision to proceed by land. Better and easier way to store regular rows of shrubs, positioning them for the better use of sunlight from the north to the south. Be sure to take into account the distance in the ranks and among them, to ensure the supply area of 1.5-2 m ² on a bush. In addition, the recorded aggregates and mechanisms that will be used to care. In this regard, the distance between rows may be from 1.5 to 3.0 m.
The distance between the bushes in the series depends on the varietal characteristics. Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 0.6 m from each other, medium-, and vigorous - at a distance of 0.8 - 1.2 m. The annual pruning to produce large berries optimal distance between the bushes in a row 0.8 m.
After the breakdown begin to prepare planting holes. This is done in advance, for 2-3 weeks before planting, so that the soil has had time to settle. The pits are usually made circular, with vertical walls, the size is determined depending on the variety of blueberry, soil type and depth of the groundwater. For light loam with a depth of ground water for more than 2 m size of the landing pit of a diameter of no less than 60 cm and 40 cm depth on heavy loam soil pits make wider and shallower depth (15-20 cm), as after heavy rainfall or excess irrigation water in deep holes will stagnate and spoil the root system.
In clay soil bottom and walls of the pit become dense, and therefore it is difficult permeable to air and water, so the surface should be lightly scarify. On heavy clay soil to grow blueberries is not desirable. But if after all the bushes are planted, then they should be planted on the ridge, ie, dig a pit depth of about 10 cm, and in this place fill mound of peat, sand, sawdust, in the midst of which the land plants. Seedling in this case should not bury, but after landing around to pour a layer of sawdust 10-15 cm (ie, so that the root system was almost at the level of the soil surface, and excess water to drain into the aisle.) On sandy and peat soils, the most suitable for growing blueberries, dig holes up to 1 m in width and a depth of 0.6 m. If, under the sandy soil at a depth of 0.5-0.7 m is a solid layer, the channel needs to be done or drainage for water discharge. Prepared by a pit filled with cooked sour earlier substrate (peat or a mixture of peat, sawdust, pine litter and sand), add 40-60 grams of sulfur, mixed and compacted.
Do not forget to bring the pH to 3.5-4.5 prepared substrates using, for example, acidification of sulfur or sulfuric acid.
Well suited for this purpose electrolyte for acid batteries. It’s diluted with water (3.5 ml per 1 liter of water) and pours the substrate to complete wetting.
Planting. Planting material
The best planting material for planting are on constant 2-3-year-old seedlings with closed root system. A feature planting with closed root system (they are sold in pots or plastic bags) is that this operation can produce throughout the year. Because you are not breaking the roots, just remove the plant from the container and planting it in the prepared hole, as it does with plants Passing them from the smaller to the larger pot. And if you already bought a seedling, the pit is not ready, then in a pot or package plant will live for several months until the preparations for planting are completed, but do not forget to water regularly. When planting blueberries can be sunk with a 5-6 cm. If the roots are tightly braid land, it is best to stretch their little hands and spread horizontally, or in a few years, the plant dies (roots bend inside, instead of grow in breadth). Sleep easy plant soil, usually without making fertilizer. Seedling with a little shaking, with a point to the fill all the voids in the pot. The hole finally fall asleep the soil around the bush and doing well watered. Then the hole with sawdust mulch (5-8 cm layer) to reduce evaporation.